You sling a leg over your bike, reach down for the key, push the starter or give it a kick and…no bueno, she does not start!

There’s only one way to know why a bike won’t start, and the process begins with knowing how an engine operates. It also doesn’t hurt to know some of the history of the machine in question.

From there, it’s all trial and error which involves running down the list of possible scenarios putting your theories to the test.

Step one in your personal diagnostic checklist is to review the history of the bike.

• How long did the bike sit idle? Was it a runner before it was parked? Did it start and run just fine yesterday and crap out today?
• Have you done any recent repairs, added some custom parts, messed with the electrical system?
• Has the bike been laid down in a parking lot recently? Taken a detour through a farmer’s field? Been dipped in a local lake?
• Did you notice any strange sounds shortly before the problem happened?
• What’s the weather like outside? Wet? Cold? Incredibly hot and humid?
• Did you fill it up out of a gas can at someone’s garage? Leave it unattended overnight in a bar parking lot while you slept on the pool table inside?

All of these could factor into your thinking, so you have to eliminate the least likely possibilities and focus on the ideas which are the most likely – it’s Occam’s Razor, and can use that kind of thinking to cut through the crap and find a solution to the problem.

If the bike sat idle for a long time, start with that in mind. It started and ran fine when you put it away, but it sure doesn’t now, and that’s telling stuff. The odds are that it doesn’t have any serious mechanical problems. Electrical issues, same deal here, unless someone took their pocket knife to the wiring, not much can go wrong with electrical systems that won’t display telltale signs. Pull the plug wires, lay the plug against the jugs, and check for a spark just to make sure. No spark? No fuego.

What’s left? Bad fuel, my friend. Bad fuel in the tank and carb is the cause of the vast majority of no-start problems. Water in the lines. Clogged fuel filter. Fuel systems have the highest likelihood of failure, and that makes the fuel system a good place to begin your investigation.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking about compression or tearing down your top end to fix a problem caused by a dirty carburetor. Since there are really only three things that make an engine fire – fuel, spark and compression – make sure all those systems are go before you look for a more complicated solution.

Occam’s Razor? It’s your pal, follow the principle.

Fuel Issues

Start by making certain the carburetor is getting fuel. Pop open the overflow at the bottom of the float bowl, and if you have a handful of gasoline, you know you have fuel making to the carb. And look for simple things like checking to see if the petcock is in the open or reserve position. No fuel, you might be facing a bad needle or a seat stuck in the closed position. Rap the side of the float bowls and it might come unstuck before you tear down the carb entirely.

If you do have fuel to the carburetor, and still no start, clear out all the fuel in the tank and lines and try to start and run the bike with the choke on. If the engine conks when you turn the choke off, you’ve got a bad pilot jet and a rebuild kit is in your future.

Got Spark?

Pull a plug out, leave it in the cap attached to the plugwire,  and ground the threads to something ferrous and metallic – aluminum parts won’t do the trick, pard. Kick the motor over or hit the switch and if you don’t see a bright blue spark, a decent 1/4″ gap, and a clean ceramic, you found your problem. If the spark plug fouled and coated with oil or gas, move on to test your coil. If the coil is giving you some output, you’re into something heavier like a pickup coil or a bad CDI box. If you think the CDI box is bad, don’t even bother to try and test it, just find a new one and install it. They don’t come cheap, so check every other possibility before you take that kind of step.

Bad switch? Could be. Test it by unplugging it and looping the connection to make it hot and check for spark again.

No Compression

Pull your spark plug and hook up a compression test gauge. Open the throttle and kick the motor until the dial stops moving, and if you have anything over 100psi, you’re probably good to go here. If you have no compression or a very low PSI reading, you have problems with your piston and rings, and it’s time for a top end rebuild.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that, though modern engines are considerably more complicated than old-school twins, what makes a motor run ain’t rocket science. Fuel. Spark. Compression.

Scott McCrorie of Long Beach, California demonstrates how he kick starts his custom 1939 Harley-Davidson ULH:

Click here to view the embedded video.

Insuring your collectible or vintage motorcycle

As for insurance for your collectible motorcycle? You should be able to get Agreed Value coverage on a classic 1959 BSA Gold Star Catalina valued at $15,000 for somewhere around $25 a month, and that gives you the whole shooting match of coverage.

You can spend a lot less, but if you plan to ride the bikes in your collection, the above pricing is a reasonable approximation of what you can expect to pay.

Related posts:

1. 1936 BMW R12 – Bike Find of the Day
2. It’s All About the Diesel – A Primer on Diesel Motorcycle Greatness
3. Top 3 Tips for Buying a Used Motorcycle

What your motorcycle’s suspension is supposed to do is pretty simple stuff. It’s meant to absorb shock from bumps and potholes in the road or ruts out in the wild, keep the tires in contact with the road surface and maintain as close as is possible the overall geometry built into the chassis of your bike while all that’s happening.

So on to some basic terms which are used to explain how a motorcycle suspension does its business.

SPRING RATE is the amount of force (or weight) necessary to deflect (or compress) a spring a given distance. This value is generally expressed as lb/in (pounds per inch). If a force of 300lbs is applied to a spring and it compresses 3 inches, that spring can be said to have a 100lb/in “spring rate.”

TRAVEL is the distance the center of a wheel can move from full extension to full compression of the suspension components.

STATIC PRELOAD is the amount a spring is compressed while it supports the chassis when the machine is at rest.

SAG is the amount (distance in mm) the front or rear suspension moves when the bike is in an unweighted state.

LOADED SAG is the amount (distance in mm) the suspension can travel as a rider sits on a bike.

COMPRESSION DAMPING refers to the speed at which a spring can be compressed when a sudden shock is applied to the suspension components.

REBOUND DAMPING refers to the speed at which a spring extends following a shock to the suspension.

RIDE HEIGHT is the distance between the rear wheel axle and a fixed point on the chassis above, generally measured at the top of the seat position.

FORK HEIGHT refers to the amount the tops of the fork legs protrude through the top yoke or triple tree clamp.

STEERING HEAD ANGLE refers to the angle to which the steering head axis deviates from vertical. This number is larger for chopper style bikes, smaller for standard setups and is measured in degrees and often referred to as “rake.”

TIRE PRESSURE can either mask or exaggerate what could be mistaken for suspension problems. If a rear tire is under-inflated you will certainly feel that the back end of your motorcycle squirms when you lean the bike hard over and then again when you apply power on the exit of a corner.

This condition is also present with too soft a spring or not enough compression damping, but an under-inflated rear tire will often mimic some of the feel characteristics of a badly set-up suspension. Before you start tinkering with your suspension setup, make sure you use an accurate tire pressure gauge to inflate (or deflate) your tires to reach the manufacturer’s recommended pressure. It’s pretty easy to find, just read the recommendation on the side of the tires.

Via: MotocrossGear.com

Additional Reading:

• Motorcycle Mechanics Institute,The Complete Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics, 1984 Prentice-Hall, Inc., ISBN 0-13-160549-6
• Motorcycle Mechanics Institute,The Complete Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics, 1984, Prentice-Hall, Inc., ISBN 0-13-160549-6
• Wilson, H. The Encyclopedia of the Motorcycle Dorling-Kindersley Limited, 1995 ISBN 0 7513 0206 6
• Wilson, H. The Encyclopedia of the Motorcycle Dorling-Kindersley Limited, 1995 ISBN 0 7513 0206 6
• Wilson, H. The Encyclopedia of the Motorcycle Dorling-Kindersley Limited, 1995 ISBN 0 7513 0206 6
• Motorcycle Mechanics Institute,The Complete Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics, 1984,Prentice-Hall, Inc., ISBN 0-13-160549-6
• Motorcycle Mechanics Institute,The Complete Guide to Motorcycle Mechanics, 1984, Prentice-Hall, Inc., ISBN 0-13-160549-6

Whether you ride a sport bike or an American cruiser, you need to make sure your insurance coverage fits your style of riding and the bike you do your riding on.

We’re here to help you find the right motorcycle insurance, whatever you ride…

Tips for buying your motorcycle insurance, coverage you need:

• Collision to pay for damage caused to your vehicle in an accident with another vehicle or any stationary object.
• Comprehensive to cover such things as fire, hail, wind, vandalism, hitting an animal, etc.
• Towing / Pickup
• Medical payment or personal injury protection to cover the medical bills resulting from an accident.
• Uninsured or underinsured motorist to protect us when the other driver is at-fault and does not have coverage or assets out of which your bills can be paid.

Related posts:

1. Quick Tips and Facts for the Motorcyclist – Our Motorcycle Safety and Gear Infographic
2. Motorcycle Camping – The Guide To Traveling Light and Rough on Your Bike
3. No Snow Yet, But I’m Prepared To Maintain My Motorcycle Jones All Winter

While they’re not the first outfit to offer “Self-Repair” motorcycle shop services, seeing an article about http://motomethod.com/ got me thinking about the idea and the pros and cons of using such a service.

Motomethod, in Vancouver, BC, is open for business and offers individual riders the option of heading over there, reserving a lift, renting tools and machinery and doing their own fabrication or repair jobs with or without the supervision of an expert technician.

While it seems like a great idea and will surely help build up an active motorcycle community in the area around the shop, I can’t help but worry for the guys running the show. There’s liability to be concerned about if anything takes an ugly turn, but I’m sure the guys have thought about – and planned for – that sort of agony.

Motomethod Community Motorcycle Repair Shop in Vancouver, BC Canada, allows individual riders to head to their shop and take care of their own repairs. Bonus? The shop is cool with all makes and models of motorcycles from the shiny and new to the, shall we say, less glossy machines.

Their rates, while pretty close to the kind of numbers you’d pay for service from a trained professional, do seem entirely reasonable. For the price, you get a chance to get your mitts dirty and hang out with some people who like to do the same thing – and you’ve got some professional backup if you get in over your head.
Rates

SERVICE

NON-MEMBER
Shop Rate

Starts at $80
Tune Up

Starts at $50
Oil Change

Starts at $40
Tire Change*

$45
Brake Bleed

Starts at $20
Brake pad installation

Starts at $25
Carb/throttle body sync

Starts at $40
Motomember Bench Rental

$25
Pickup, Delivery & Tow

$60**

* per wheel, includes mounting and balance
** within Vancouver city limits

Memberships

MOTOMETHOD MEMBERSHIP

$100/year

1 year Motomethod membership includes:

• 1 free pick up/ drop off (within Vancouver)
• Free tire changes
• Access to the DIY faculties for $25/hr
• BIG discounts on tires
• Discounts on all parts/ accessories
• Service with a smile!
• $1/ day storage
Contact Details

Hours:Tuesday to Saturday 9am-6pm
Phone:604.568.5578
Address:103-1305 Frances St, Vancouver
Email:info@motomethod.com

So you like to wrench on your own bike? Make sure you have the right motorcycle insurance to cover your losses if you make a mistake like forgetting the Lok-Tite and a wheel comes off while you’re on the highway.
Let’s face it, you like to ride hard and fast and your insurance needs are a little more complicated than those of the average RUB.

We’re here to help you get enough inexpensive motorcycle insurance to make sure your bike stays on the road and running like clockwork…

Related posts:

1. You Ride It, Now Wrench It – Motorcycle Repair Tips and Links
2. 41 Blogs to Assist in DIY Motorcycle Maintenance and Repair
3. Guilt By Association – Motorcycle Shop Owner Beats the Rap in Redding

Or not…

You can do a perfectly excellent job with a rattle can.

I know, heresy of the highest order. No one can do a good job with a rattle can. Wrong.

You might not be able to achieve the kind of seamless perfection a real painter using real tools can, but you can sure as hell make a good job of it that stands up to sunlight and gawkers in the parking lot at your local watering hole.

Successful painting is all about correct preparation. It might well be 80% prep and 20% paint and polish. When you do your initial work on a tank or a fender, take the time to do the prep work likes it the most important step in the process, because it is the most important step in the process.

Your touch is your friend. The tip of your finger can detect a surface deviation of less than 2 μm, or micrometer, and that’s a might fine little distinction which is more than good enough to let you know if a surface is “smooth” enough to paint. If you don’t believe me, you can read Tactile Detection Thresholds for a Single Asperity on an Otherwise Smooth Surface, but I don’t recommend it if you’re not in the market for a quick nap.

When you’re doing your prep, start with some coarse material like 100 grit and take your time until you work your way down to a something really fine like the smoothest auto grade paper – and use it wet.

Once you start to paint, make sure the primer you use is compatible with the paint you are using as some paint formulations  just plain don’t play nice together. Don’t make that mistake.

You’re going to need some rattle cans of your chosen color, clear coat (which of course will work with the paint you use),  some extra spray nozzles which fit the cans you’re using, a quart of paint thinner, fine and extra fine sanding sponges, a dish soap, some cheap rough paper towels or shop rags and some polishing compound.

The best advice I’ve ever heard or read on painting with a rattlecan can be found on this website, and unfortunately, I had to learn almost all these lessons on my own before I found this how-to masterpiece. I reprint it here and suggest that you visit this guy’s site and buy something from him for being such a sport and saving you a whole bunch of heartache and failure:

Ready to paint:

Assuming your surface is already clean and smooth. Fill up a paint can cap lid half way with thinner. Put your extra nozzles in there. Shake paint can violently while holding upside down for at least 3 minutes.

Put a practice surface directly below whatever you are to paint. Every time you go to paint your item, you must do 2 strokes on a practice surface. So keep the practice surface near the object you want to paint.. That’s because the first two sprays you ever do when painting usually spit out a small blob. The first blobby spray goes on the practice surface and then you work into what you are painting a second after.

Assuming you know how to paint (steady back and fourth motions spraying ONLY when your arm is in fast motion from side to side. 8 inches away never slowing in motion.

Another tip: After about 5 strokes wipe the end of the nozzle because a blob of paint likes to cover the nozzle after a few sprays. Wipe and hit practice pad and fade into object being painted.

BE PATIENT! The goal is to get the least amount of paint down while still covering the object. Example: 10-15 VERY LIGHT coats are better than 3-5 heavy coats. As a matter of fact, it may take you 3, 4, 5 coats before you blank out the sight of the primer/under paint.

The primer will bleed through for the first 3 or 4 coats. Don’t try to get greedy and cover it! Don’t concern yourself with covering anything. Just get uniform equal coats down.

You better follow these directions or your paint job will look stupid.

We want a thin uniform hard shell put on. When you paint you are painting so light that the paint dries seconds after you put it on. if you are putting paint on and it looks wet anywhere, you’re putting it on too thick. We just want to mist the thing all over about 20 times over a period of hours.

Get the idea? If you are done painting in an hour you have a serious problem with patience and following directions.

IMPORTANT:

Make a rule that every twenty sprays you take the nozzle off and replace it with a clean one sitting in the thinner filled cap.

If you don’t have extra nozzles then soak that one for a few minutes while shaking.

BE PATIENT! After you change the nozzle reshake can another 3 minutes with can upside down.

Now, before you start painting again ALWAYS hit that practice surface next to the item you are painting a few sprays and then work into the item you are painting!

It says apply THIN COATS on the can, and for good reason. DO NOT GET GREEDY or you will pay the price with a run and a crummy looking paint job.

Put a light coat on…wait ten-20 minutes another coat and repeat till covered. Do not break your rules of cleaning nozzles every 20 strokes and the rule of always hitting the practice surface first and work into the object being painted!

If you do not do this like clock work your end result will be a painted turd. I can’t stress these two things enough! And remember how far you hold the can from the object being painted is most important.

Too close and it gives an orange peel look. And too far away and the paint goes on rough and foggy. Let dry for days…Practice Practice. If you make a mistake wait to dry 2 days, sand mistake area and touch up.

Wet Sand:

You have your base coat down and it has dried for 2 days or more (more is always better). It looks good but it has orange peel and looks like a typical rattle can job.

Don’t worry, if it even looks that good you are in great shape.

Take that fine sanding sponge with a LITTLE soap and water mix and sand that whole object lightly and evenly.

Yes I know its going to scratch the hell out of the whole thing and make it foggy. We want this. Just sand evenly and lightly. We are doing this too smooth out the top thin coat only so don’t sand through. I said lightly and evenly! And not for too long, just enough to cover it all with a few strokes of the soapy wet fine grit sponge to fog it over a bit.

Watch the corners or curves, they’re the easiest to sand too much.

Final Base Coat:

Now take some of those cheap paper towels and moisten them with some water. Clean up the area you are painting. Then take some dry ones and aggressively remove all moisture. Now go back and put another light coat of colour on. Or should I say very light coat.

And make sure you are still following the directions above with the nozzles and test pad and shaking. One slip up now and you are toast. Don’t put enough on to make it a light coat like you did above. Just enough to barely cover the fog you created by the sanding and buffing with rough towels. When doing this light coat you want to pay special attention to not have the can far away.

This coat will be very light and just barely cover the fog but the closer the can is the more gloss it produces (but don’t make it wet). Don’t make it run and don’t worry about getting it all perfect. Just get it done without a run or first spray blob. Let dry a day or two, or three. It all depends on the humidity and other factors. The longer you wait the better.

Then, WET SAND.

Now that you are finished with the base color, get your FINE sanding sponge and a pan of water and some dish soap (I use Dawn).

Mix some dish soap in the water and soak the sponge in the suds. Pour a little on the object you painted. Now take the sponge and apply some raw dish soap to the gritty area. Now LIGHTLY sand the entire area of the object. Keep the soap and water going. Don’t even come close to running dry. Don’t take too long sanding one area and get the whole job done quick. Don’t loaf by sanding it all too much, just get it even and done.

Then dry it off with the rough dry paper towels lightly. It should look a little better than the last time you sanded but don’t expect a shine yet we are far from done.

Clear Coat:

Get your clear coat out and paint just like you did above. Follow all the rules above! That means you still have to put the nozzle in thinner every 15-20 strokes, you still have to use the test pad and drift into what you are painting, and you still have to do several light coats.

The distance you hold the can away from painted object is still critical if not more. Keep it close to keep that gloss up but do it extra light and quick so there is no chance of a run.

But don’t try to make it gloss with healthy sprays, a shiny surface now has little do to with finished product.

Keep that patience going. Put 4-5 light coats on. Just get it done, do not try to over do or under do it just keep to the rules. When painting be patient in between coats and 15 minutes has to be better than 5 as far as drying time is concerned, but with clear coat application don’t wait over 30 minutes between coats.

YOU ARE NOW DONE PAINTING. Let the item dry for a day or 2 or 3 or more days.

Final Wet Sanding:

Get out your dish soap and water and EXTRA FINE sanding sponge and do like you did above but, keep that pure dish soap on the sponge and on the painted object.

Besides being wet we want the object being sanded coated with a heavy coat of raw dish soap. More than you used above that is for sure.

USE ALOT OF WATER AND SOAP! And GO EASY!

Go very light on the pressure! What you will be sanding is not visible by eye so a light touch is needed. But don’t just glide the sponge over the soap. Like above don’t spend all day sanding it, just make sure all areas are hit with a more than a few good strokes and call it good.

Rubbing It Out:

Make sure you don’t try to polish a painted item unless its dried for a week or so at least. Depending on weather, humidity etc…

You want it to shine?

Get the rubbing compound and a very soft cloth and follow directions on the can. This usually involves making the cloth damp. Guess what? You are going to have to rub and polish this thing at least 15 times to get a killer shine going.

Apply rubbing compound over surface with a flat hand. Don’t rub one specific area with single finger pressure. Keep it flat. Keeping in mind if we had a buffer and a thirty dollar bottle of professional polishing compound formula 21 or whatever it is, it just wouldn’t be a cheap DIY rattle can project would it.

This is DIY for 10 bucks. But it would sure help matters.

You should be looking at a damn quality paint job if you followed all the directions to a T. I have done this like 10 times already and it keeps looking better every time. It looks allot closer to a professional paint job then any rattle can job you will ever see.

You know you are getting good when the finished product is clear like glass and the clear coat has the illusion that it is half an inch thick.

One last tip? Do motorycle wheels with “refrigerator paint”. It’s not quite as smooth and tough as the coating on the old ice box, but it’s close. Some people think this result was achieved by powder coating.

It’s called “Plastikote refrigerator paint.”

Related posts:

1. The Friday Motorcycle Chain Links – Interweb Motorcycle News Excellence
2. Riding In the Rain Is Unavoidable, So Here’s How To Do It Right
3. No Snow Yet, But I’m Prepared To Maintain My Motorcycle Jones All Winter

My lovely wife and I, confronted with a need to store an enormous amount of tools, furniture we no longer have immediate need for and miscellaneous near-junk items, bought what can only be called a ‘derelict’ old building within a mile of our home. It’s not in a great neighborhood, but it does have the benefit of being in an out of the way location.

The idea was to save the money we’d been spending on spaces in storage buildings and maybe build up a little equity in the bargain over the years. What we actually got was a long list of items the city wanted repaired or upgraded and we were confronted with completing that list on no budget and with only the tools we have on hand. Granted, the tools we have on hand go well beyond what the average family has on the workbench in the garage, but that fact is both part of the solution – and part of the problem.

So there it is…

Getting the building into a usable state has so far required a major overhaul of the electrical system, tearing out and replacing a whole network of frozen pipes, a complete repainting of the flaking paint on the interior, the purchase and installation of a very large (and very heavy) system of racking to store loose items and more than a few heated discussions about how much sense the whole thing made in the first place. There’s still a ton of work to be done, but it’s finally starting to seem manageable if somewhat daunting. The vast majority of the permit and inspection process is over, and what a relief that’s been. At the start, the humble workshop was pored over by a veritable army of city functionaries and other interested parties who all handed my lists that ran to multiple pages of items they wanted addressed – the punchlist from hell.

Among the problems the whole idea was meant to alleviate was the fact that between us, my father in law and I have six motorcycle in various states of repair, a couple that run and ride with Swiss-watch-like precision and a mighty pile of project parts and items collected over the years. Add to that a whole list of very old, very heavy but useful and serviceable shop tools (nearly all of which are duplicates from our separate collections), and what you get is a whole lot of moving of very, very heavy items. Well, the moving is nearly done, and for once in my life, I actually bothered to take photos of the project at various stages.

This will represent the second time I’ve taken on this kind of project and I think the last one, while perhaps not the most beautiful example of the breed, was at least the test bed and prototype for the coming incarnation. Last time around, I had to share my tiny workspace with two cars and a variety of other stuff in an unheated garage which featured poor lighting, low ceilings and a family of persistent aggressive Attack Raccoons.

Over the course of the winter, I plan to post those photos here and to also post photos of the activity the building was made to accomplish – operating as a sort of working shrine to all things motorcycles.

Part of the plan is to spend what little credit I have left on a 70′s-era bike (the budget dictates a Yamaha or a Honda and not the Harley WL I covet) and customize it into what my vision of a motorcycle should be.

Any tips or ideas you may have are more than welcome.

So wish me luck, and here goes…

Insuring your collectible or vintage motorcycle

As for insurance for your collectible motorcycle? You should be able to get Agreed Value coverage on a classic 1959 BSA Gold Star Catalina valued at $15,000 for somewhere around $25 a month, and that gives you the whole shooting match of coverage.

You can spend a lot less, but if you plan to ride the bikes in your collection, the above pricing is a reasonable approximation of what you can expect to pay.

Related posts:

1. Choosing Your Winter Motorcycle Project And The Guys Who Can Help
2. Storing Your Bike – What You Need to Know To Have Your Motorcycle Ready for Winter
3. From The Ad Game To Motorcycles and Lamps – Classified Moto

Get them something they can use, and the stuff below is just the ticket.

If something like this ends up under the Christmas tree, they look at you through eyes burning with the hot gratitude of one thousand suns.

Trust me on this…

Let’s face it, your motorcycle addicted friends and family like to ride, and chances are, they like to wrench as well. With that in mind, sooner or later, that special someone is going to want to move their motorcycles.This item will give you a leg up on that chore, and it would also make an excellent addition to a shop lift table. The pivoting bracket moves up to secure the motorcycle in an upright position. Easy for one person to strap-down a motorcycle Mounts securely to floor, truck or trailer Fits most motorcycle wheels Formed steel with carbon steel hardware, thermoplastic end caps Motorcycles with super-wide front tires or custom low-profile front fenders may not fit this wheel chock. Wheel chock dimensions: 24-1/2″ L x 9-3/4″ W x 12-7/8″ H Base plate: 15-5/8″ L x 10-1/2″ W Shipping Weight: 15.90 lbs. Price: $39.99 at Harbor Freight

To buy bikes, it’s often necessary to move them from here to there for things like routine maintenance and storing them for the winter. And you never know, you can hardly have too many motorcycles, and this handy-dandy folding trailer will let you bring back all the basket cases you can afford and have room to store. This folding utility trailer only takes up 24″ x 63″ of floor space when folded, so it can be stored just about anywhere, but unfolded, it can handle heavy loads up to 1195 pounds! Add plywood decking for a 48″ x 96″ bed. Hitch this heavy-duty folding utility trailer to a vehicle that has a 1-7/8″ ball hitch to transport securely. Steel trailer frame has built-in slots for stake siding (stake sides not included) DOT-certified tail lights and side running lights, safety wiring harness 3-leaf spring suspension Trailer bed tilts all the way to the ground for easy loading 4.8″ wide, 12″ diameter tires Axle thickness: 5mm Overall dimensions: 110″ L x 61-1/2″ W x 19-1/4″ H Shipping Weight: 159.00 lbs. Price: $299.99 at Harbor Freight

If you haven’t had the pleasure, it’s a royal pain in the ass to work on a motorcycle while it’s leaned over on a kickstand and not very high off the ground.And try changing a tire like that and you’ll discover the meaning of agony.Now you can work on your bike safely and comfortably with this high position motorcycle lift.Supporting an 1100 lb. load capacity, the motorcycle lift provides a lifting height range from 2.6″ to 30″. The lift also features wheels for easy maneuvering and placement. 1100 lb. weight capacity Lifting range from 2.6″ to 30″ Ram travel: 7-3/8″ Distance between base legs: 20-3/8″ Overall dimensions: 44″ L x 24-3/8″ W x 37-3/4″ H Shipping Weight: 131.00 lbs.   Price: $199.99 at Harbor Freight

And speaking of basket cases, sooner or later you’re going to be the proud owner of a dusty, greasy barn-find bike.On that fine day, you’ll be glad you tucked this Cruz Tools motorcycle tool kit behind the seat of your truck.You never know, you might get lucky and ride it home while your buddy drives the truck looking forlorn and plotting a way to get you to let him ride it when you get back to the garage…Price: $79.95 at Sears

Don’t Want to Enourage Bad Habits? Then Consider These Less Awesome Sources of Motorcycling Christmas Gifts

• Cycletrader: A Blog written specific to female motorcycle riders, with gifts that female riders would enjoy. Female riders have different needs than male riders and this article discusses differences.
• Motorbiker: Jewelry for motorcycle lovers, both male and female designs and gifts. Many of the designs have the Harley or Ducati insignia.
• Scooter Diva: Fashionable clothes and accessories for both scooter and motorcycle lovers. Gifts for the fashion-forward motorcycle rider in your life.
• Steel Thunder: A motorcycle company website newsletter discussing great gifts to buy riders of motorcycles. Also, there are gifts for dirt bike riders and enthusiasts.
• Women Riders Now: This is a newsletter discussing what women riders would like for gifts for birthdays, Christmas or Mothers Day. Not all moms want a bouquet of flowers and a greeting card.
• Places2ride: A website listing six gifts that every motorcycle rider should have,  and most of the gifts are both fun and practical.
• Ride My Own: This website has shirts with “I Will Ride My Own” statement, very popular for female motorcyclists. Also, tips on how to purchase gifts for your wife, sister or daughter that is getting into motorcycle riding.
• Bikers Den: A popular clothing, gear, and boot page for motorcycle riders; has great gift ideas for both men and women riders.
• Leather Up: Leather is a popular choice for motorcycle riders, and this site has hundreds of leather items to choose from. Leather is the best protective gear for riders, and the most fun to wear as well.
• Biker-Gifts: A British focusing on gifts for motorcycle riders of all ages.  Even though site is British it offers great tips about purchasing items that cyclists will love.
• Motorcycle Boots for Mom: Discusses buying a mom motorcycle boots for mother day. Also, discusses how to size boots and how they should fit.
• Women’s Automotive Solutions: A website geared towards female riders that discusses the fun of motorcycle riding and the gear that you will want when you start riding. Females may need different seats, helmets and handlebars then there male counterparts.
• Roadcarvin – Christmas Gift Ideas for Bikers: A blog with a fun Christmas list of items to buy bikers.
• Rippin Kitten: A blog written by a female about motorcycle riding, fun gear that you need to ride, and how female motorcyclists can enjoy shopping for bikes. Shopping for motorcycles does not have to be a scary experience.
• Leather Lollipop: Leather, the popular biker choice, is represented on this website, with gifts and accessories for motorcycle enthusiasts. Mostly female apparel is represented, but there are few items for men as well.
• Pit Posse: A website specializing in tires discusses gifts for motorcyclists. Tires may seem boring as a gift, but your rider will appreciate the joy of riding their bike on a new set of tires.
• Bikers Friend: This website sells homemade leather goods for bikes and motorcyclists. Can be monogrammed with initials, quotes, and group names.
• Kyle Designs: A design company makes monogrammed flasks, card cases, money clips etc, with motorcycle designs on them.
• Thrifty Fun:  All Harley brand gear for the Harley lovers
• Harley Coins: Actual minted coins with Harley Davidson logo and insignia. A great gift for the Harley lover in your life.
• Give a Share:Interesting idea for a gift, Harley Davidson stock. Enthusiasts can own a share of the company they love.
• The Bikers Emporium: A blog on Harley Gift website, offers tips for buying gifts for motorcycle lovers.
• Laidlaw: A website discussing cool tools that can be given to Harley lovers. Harley riders love gadgets, and this site has plenty.

Buying Your First Bike? The Guide to Motorcycle Insurance

Whether you ride a sport bike or an American cruiser, your insurance needs can get complicated.
We’re here to help you find the right motorcycle insurance, whatever you ride…

Tips for buying your motorcycle insurance, coverage you need:

• Towing / Pickup
• Don’t skimp on buying medical payment or personal injury protection to cover the medical bills resulting from an accident.
• Uninsured or underinsured motorist is critical to protect you when the other driver is at-fault and does not have coverage or assets out of which your bills can be paid.

Related posts:

1. A New Ducati Is A Christmas Gift – I’ll Get Socks
2. 50 Posts of Great Gifts For Those Who Like Motorcycles
3. Restoring Dad’s Norton – If This Video Doesn’t Move You, You Have a Heart Of Stone

How about a little reading material?

Shop Class as Soulcraft became an instant best-seller and attracted readers with its radical revision of the merits of skilled manual labor. On economic and psychological grounds author Matthew B. Crawford questioned the educational and philosophical sense of making everyone into a “knowledge worker.”

From his own experience as an electrician and mechanic, Crawford presented a realized call for self-reliance and a reflection on how we can live, really live,  in a world driven into insensate abstraction.

“Wood was for hippies,” Crawford wrote. “The wood whisperer with his hand planes, his curly maple, and his workshop on Walden Pond is a stock alter ego of gentlefolk everywhere, and I wanted none of it.”

But the gentle craft of woodworking failed to offer the requisite thump and thunder, Crawford found his place in the world with his motorcycle repair shop.

Crawford holds a Ph.D. in political philosophy from the University of Chicago, so expect him to deliver an intellectual take on his topic.

The book is timely and provocative, and centers on Crawford’s exhortation that we’d all do well to  “extend our moral imagination to people who are conventionally beneath serious regard” and recognize “the intellectual accomplishments of people who do work that is dirty.”

It’s also about bikes, and that makes it a worthy read…

Related posts:

1. Win Your Dream Motorcycle Fabrication Shop From Lincoln
2. He Didn’t Quite Make the Finish Line Himself, But Ken Burt’s Metal Work Did
3. What Is A Man’s Life Work Worth? Lee Roy Hartung Motorcycle Collection Racks Up $4 Million

Thanks to Vicki, from  Accident Scene Management,  for teaching this technique to help riders manage their machines.

This Street Glide has a dry weight of almost 900 pounds yet this technique made it easy for her to stand up any damn near any size bike.

Information like this is invaluable to riders and just the sort of thing to give new riders  a ‘leg up,’ as it were, and keep them involved in our favorite way to get from here to there…

Advice for Women and Riding Motorcycles

Buying Your First Bike? The Women’s Guide to Motorcycle Insurance

Whether you ride a sport bike or an American cruiser, your insurance needs can get complicated.
We’re here to help you find the right motorcycle insurance, whatever you ride…

Tips for buying your motorcycle insurance, coverage you need:

• Collision to pay for damage caused to your vehicle in an accident with another vehicle or any stationary object.
• Comprehensive to cover such things as fire, hail, wind, vandalism, hitting an animal, etc.
• Towing / Pickup
• Medical payment or personal injury protection to cover the medical bills resulting from an accident.
• Uninsured or underinsured motorist to protect us when the other driver is at-fault and does not have coverage or assets out of which your bills can be paid.

Related posts:

1. It’s Ladies Day on the Open Road, Women Are Finally Twisting the Throttle
2. Hunter S. Thompson Hangs With His Hells Angels Pal on Canadian Television
3. Massachusetts Mulls Repeal of Helmet Law

At other times, however, what you can see on display is, well, a bit of a stretch and a challenge to the plausible.

I’m all for people attempting to come up with great ideas to make motorcycling safer and more comfortable, but once in awhile an idea comes along which should have ended at the cocktail napkin stage in development.

Here’s a case in point – the motorcycle helmet wiper blade attachment.

Thanks to our pal Mike Werner at motorbiker.org for finding this gem…

Bad things can happen to you and your bike, and your insurance needs can get complicated. We’re here to help…

Related posts:

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2. Motorcycle Camping – The Guide To Traveling Light and Rough on Your Bike
3. Will Motorcycle Airbags Ever Capture the Imagination of Hardcore Riders?

These guys and gals are the pros, so you’re in good hands and here are some links to our favorite stuff from their sites.

Enjoy…and give them some link love.

Self -Balancing Electric Unicycle

The Kneeslider

Deus Bali Yamaha SR 400 Custom

Bike EXIF

Outlaw Territory

The MotoLady

The Fat Bike Blog

Fat Bike Blog

MV Agusta 675 Brutale

Cyril Huze Post

London Police Test Zero Electric Motorcycles

Visor Down

Motorcycle Air Bag Test Video

Bikes in the Fast Lane

Buying Your First Bike? The Women’s Guide to Motorcycle Insurance

Whether you ride a sport bike or an American cruiser, your insurance needs can get complicated.
We’re here to help you find the right motorcycle insurance, whatever you ride…

Tips for buying your motorcycle insurance, coverage you need:

• Collision to pay for damage caused to your vehicle in an accident with another vehicle or any stationary object.
• Comprehensive to cover such things as fire, hail, wind, vandalism, hitting an animal, etc.
• Towing / Pickup
• Medical payment or personal injury protection to cover the medical bills resulting from an accident.
• Uninsured or underinsured motorist to protect us when the other driver is at-fault and does not have coverage or assets out of which your bills can be paid.

Related posts:

1. The Friday Motorcycle Chain Links – Best of the Motorcycling Interweb
2. Monday Motorcycle Chain Links – Our Favorite Motorcycle Stories From Around the Internet
3. Friday Motorcycle Chain Links – The Holiday Edition of the The Best Motorcycle Stories From the Internets

It’s an internal monologue many riders have faced over the years and it comes down to a couple of basic arguments; the hardcore rider says putting a motorcycle on a trailer is akin to committing biker heresy, the pro-trailer faction cites the practicality and convenience of having additional storage and tools along for the trip.

The debate rages on.

Kendon Industries, Inc. president and professional rider, Frank Esposito, is willing to offer you some tips if you opt for the trailer option.

“It used to be that most people only bought a trailer to take their bike in for repairs,” Esposito said. “Now the perception is growing that a trailer can add a new dimension to their motorcycling experience as it increases the opportunity for adventure.”

The average rider doesn’t go beyond a 150-200 mile radius of their garage, and physical limitations prevent a growing number of riders from traveling longer distances.

“It comes down to a simple matter of quality vs. quantity,” Esposito said. “Using a trailer for motorcycles is a sensible way to get out of the comfort circle and change riding habits from a typical ride to a weekend adventure while opening up new riding opportunities.”

What’s the upside of hauling a trailer? The trailer option opens up the possibility of multi-day adventures brings planned weekend getaways with family and friends who don’t ride into the picture.

“Having rested and happy companions doesn’t hurt either,” Esposito said. “Motorcycle trailers definitely help enthusiasts enjoy more of their passion by allowing for comfortable, convenient and fun times in distant riding destinations. A trailer really allows you to look at what is beyond that 150-200 mile comfort circle.”

On the flip side of the coin are the hardcore contingent who believe putting a running motorcycle on a trailer is the Devil’s Work.

The flip side comes from riders like a guy who bills himself as BoldBiker. He relates a story about meeting a family on the road during his ride to Sturgis

“They were on their way back to Kansas where he owned an airplane.  They had no idea about Sturgis but just happened to be passing through to see Mt Rushmore after their vacation in Yellowstone,” says BoldBiker. ” He looked around and said,  ‘This makes me want to buy a Harley and come up here next year.’  Then he watched the bikes go by a while, turned to me and asked, ‘What do you all do up here?’  I tried to explain how it was like Woodstock…just being here.  Then I realized he had no clue. He is a RUB.  There are the folks who trailer a bike 1500 miles, apply fake tattoos and ride around feeling like they are ‘bikers.’  They’re on the other extreme.

BoldBiker is willing to give people a pass, but only if they’re not just putting on the costume.

“The real line is somewhere between and I can’t define it.  I also believe there is another group in the middle…the motorcyclists.  These are the folks who understand bikes, who ride them for the sheer joy of being out of a cage, who appreciate the differences in smells and temperatures as they ride through the hills.  But their bikes are something they ride…not who they are,” BoldBiker said. “Does it make a difference?  Not to me.  I just chuckle at RUBs and as long as they don’t bother me I don’t bother them. They wave, I wave, we are all on the road. Motorcyclists are okay folks.  They don’t pretend to be anything other than what they are.”

Whether you ride a sport bike or an American cruiser, your insurance needs can get complicated.

We’re here to help you find the right motorcycle insurance, whatever you ride…

Tips for buying your motorcycle insurance, coverage you need:

• Collision to pay for damage caused to your vehicle in an accident with another vehicle or any stationary object.
• Comprehensive to cover such things as fire, hail, wind, vandalism, hitting an animal, etc.
• Towing / Pickup
• Medical payment or personal injury protection to cover the medical bills resulting from an accident.
• Uninsured or underinsured motorist to protect us when the other driver is at-fault and does not have coverage or assets out of which your bills can be paid.

Related posts:

1. Does What Kind of Bike You Ride Determine Your Safety? The Statistics Say Yes
2. Dog Harassed By Legal Eagles In Quest To Ride His Motorcycle
3. Women Hit the Road In the Harley-Davidson My Time To Ride Video Series

Motorcycles come in as many different shapes, sizes – and with as many strengths and weaknesses – as they people who buy them, so your search will involve a whole bunch of choices.

Are you about speed? Style? Comfort? Practicality?

Once you’ve made those baseline determinations, you can start the hunt, and we think the following ten bikes from various manufacturers are a good place to start your shopping and test riding.

1. Triumph Bonneville ($7,299)

Photo © Triumph
If  you’re down with the look and feel of classic British bikes, start with the Triumph Bonneville. Its torque-heavy, air-cooled 865cc parallel twin doesn’t rev high and produces solid power. You also get iconic design with retro styling and modern functionality.

2. Kawasaki Vulcan 500 LTD ($5,499)

Photo © Kawasaki
If you decide to enter the market on a cruiser, you can’t go far wring with this compact parallel-twin, the Vulcan 500 LTD. Well-balanced, this mid-sized cruiser is well-suited for beginners and built on the  Ninja 500R platform features.

3. Suzuki GS500F ($5,899)

Photo © Suzuki

It’s time for a sportbike, and the GS500F’s will appeal to performance-oriented riders. To the good, an air-cooled, twin-cylinder 487cc engine is tame enough for beginners, but provides a decent enough top end for more experienced riders.

4. Yamaha V-Star 650 Custom ($6,099)

Photo © Yamaha

At a somewhat porky 513 lbs, Yamaha’s V-Star 650 Custom cruiser might is heavier than most of the bikes on this list, but a low 27″ seat height and mild-mannered handling make this an ideal beginner bike. You also get the peace of mind that comes with knowing you’ll have an enormous dealer network behind you, and that’s worth its weight in gold.

5. Suzuki DR-Z400SM ($6,299)

Photo © Suzuki
Arrived at the decision that you’ll be needing a versatile supermoto style bike? The Suzuki DR-Z400SM offers a  combination of dirtbike body and street-biased suspension which should take you comfortably down tracks from asphalt to gravel and dirt.

6. Harley-Davidson Sportster SuperLow ($7,999)

Photo © Harley-Davidson

The Harley-Davidson SuperLow is a re-configured Sportster and offers enhanced low speed maneuverability, a comfort-friendly saddle height of 25.5 inches, and more suspension travel for more comfortable long-distance riding.

7. Kawasaki Ninja 500R ($5,499)

Photo © Kawasaki
This is the relaxed older brother of the notorious Ninja bike like. The 500R is like a beefier, jacked up Ninja 250R. It remains manageable enough for beginning riders but offers more bang for the buck than little brother.

8. Suzuki GSX650F ($7,299)

Photo © Suzuki
It may look like a Gixxer, but the Suzuki GSX650F’s sports an upright posture and a less fussy powerplant, and that makes it a great choice for the  beginning rider.

9. BMW G650 Xcountry ($7,500)

Photo © BMW
If you’re after something versatile and dual purpose, consider a BMW G650 Xcountry. Packing 53 bhp, this single-cylinder powerplant will give you anvil-solid and reliable operation for a long, long time. The bizarre styling cuts a strange profile out on the road, but take comfort in the fact that you’re making a statement marking you as an iconoclast.

10. Honda Shadow Aero/Spirit 750 ($7,699)

Photo © Honda
The Honda Shadow Aero and Spirit line’s 750′s liquid-cooled 745cc V-twin is considerably more powerful than most bikes on our list, but with a low seat height and steady, predictable handling, this line has become a venerable contender. Add to that the fact that you have a huge dealer support network to fall back on in times of trouble, and you have a winner on your hands.

Whether you ride a sport bike or an American cruiser, your insurance needs can get complicated.

We’re here to help you find the right motorcycle insurance, whatever you ride…

Related posts:

1. Twin Jet Engine Board Tracker Harley – Bike Find of the Day
2. What Kind of Gas Mileage Can You Expect From Your Motorcycle?
3. The Best New Motorcycles You Can Buy for $5000

Maintaining a motorcycle is tough work. Although motorcycles are cheaper to own and maintain than cars, motorcyclists have to be even more vigilant about upkeep and repairs because they have way less protection if a mechanical failure occurs. But, thanks to the abundance of motorcycle enthusiasts and maintenance experts around the world, repairing and maintaining your motorcycle on your own has never been more doable. So before you start working on that bike, be sure to check out these 12 motorcycle maintenance sites first.

1. Total Motorcycle

   This comprehensive motorcycle maintenance guide has a wide variety of tips and how-tos that will come in handy when you need small and big repairs. Whether you want to work on your battery, tires or brakes, Total Motorcycle is definitely worth bookmarking today.

2. WhyBike.com

   WhyBike.com is your one-stop spot to keep your motorcycle running good as new. This site covers everything from maintenance and safety to performance and parts. Be sure to check out the how-to section for step-by-step instructions on basic repairs and diagnostic help.

3. Cyclepedia

   Can’t find your motorcycle manual in time for a repair? Don’t worry, because Cyclepedia has got you covered. This site has a comprehensive collection of online service manuals for various motorcycle models. Each online manual comes with concise instructions and helpful photographs, videos and wiring diagrams to make sure you master your maintenance tasks.

4. Motorcycle Repair

   Motorcycle Repair has a long list of maintenance how-tos that are sure to keep your bike running smoothly. Whether you need to work on your brakes, chains, exhaust pipes or handlebars, Motorcycle Repair has the tools and tips to guide you through the repairs.

5. Motorcyclist

   Motorcyclist offers the same informative articles and detailed tutorials on its website as it does in its monthly magazine. Motorcyclists of all skill levels will find this site’s how-to section very handy. These expertly written articles provide step-by-step instructions on basic and advanced motorcycle repairs that are sure to save you time and money.

6. Dan’s Online Motorcycle Repair Course

   Beginners and experts alike will love Dan’s Online Motorcycle Repair Course because of his vast collection of easy-to-follow maintenance and service procedures. His online tutorials offer thorough and step-by-step instructions that make motorcycle repairs seem like a breeze. Bookmark this one right away.

7. Baggers

   Custom motorcycle enthusiasts and those who want to enhance the look of their bike, should bookmark Baggers. Here you’ll get the latest maintenance tips and custom motorcycle repair advice to help you optimize the condition, look and sound of your bike.

8. Bike Chatter

   Bike Chatter is the site to visit if you want to chat about motorcycles and brush up on your bike repairs. The easy-to-follow maintenance articles are perfect for novices and experts alike. For additional advice and repair tips, check out Bike Chatter’s informative forum.

9. Ducati Suite

   Ducati owners will enjoy visiting this DIY site for specialized maintenance and repairs of Ducati bikes. Ducati Suite has everything from basic maintenance needs like changing the oil and changing the air filter to more advanced procedures, such as synchronizing the carburetor and replacing the timing belt.

10. Motorcycle Basics

    This site may be basic, but it definitely has some handy articles on how to tune up and repair your motorcycle. Be sure to bookmark the articles on getting the most out of your motorcycle manual and getting your bike back on the road.

11. Up On One

    This site has a long list of how-tos for your most basic and advanced motorcycle repairs. Some of the articles come with step-by-step photographs and video demonstrations to make you maintenance tasks that much simpler.

12. Motorcycle Forum

    If you have a maintenance problem that you just can’t seem to figure out – don’t hesitate to ask on Motorcycle Forum. This helpful discussion board lets you post repair questions, reply to others’ posts and read all of the threads to better inform yourself. Whether you’re stumped on a very technical issue or you just want to learn more about bikes, you’d better bookmark Motorcycle Forum.

Related posts:

1. 41 Blogs to Assist in DIY Motorcycle Maintenance and Repair
2. You Ride It, Now Wrench It – Motorcycle Repair Tips and Links
3. 40 Awesome Blogs and Sites about Motocross

According to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS), riders of “supersports”  or sportbike motorcycles have driver death rates per 10,000 registered vehicles nearly four times higher than for drivers of other types of motorcycles.

Should you be shocked by that number? I think not. Today’s sportbikes are capable of truly astonishing speeds and their handling encourages hard riding.

Your basic Superbike has more horsepower than most conventional motorcycles and can reach speeds of up to 190 mph. Built on finely-tuned, race tested platforms, most sportbikes are then lightly modified for street use and are most popular with riders under the age of 30.

These light-weight and aerodynamically styled machines totaled 22.5 driver deaths per 10,000 registered vehicles compared with 10.7 deaths for lesser sport models .

Standards and cruisers and touring bikes, with upright handlebars, have death rates of 5.7 and 6.5 per 10,000 vehicles, and as of 2005, superbikes accounted for 9 percent of total registrations. Standards and cruisers made up 51 percent of all bikes registered.

Among those fatally injured while riding, the IIHS says that drivers of superbikes were the youngest and had an average age of just 27.

Again, hardly surprising, touring motorcycle riders had the highest average age at 51 years old.

Fatally injured riders of lesser sports models were 34, on average, and standard and cruiser drivers were 44 years old.

Speeding and driver error were bigger factors in superbike and sport bike fatal crashes.

Speed was cited as a major determining factor in 57 percent of superbike riders’ fatal crashes in 2005 and in 46 percent for sport model riders.

Speed was a determining factor in 27 percent of fatal crashes of riders of cruisers and standards, and for 22 percent of riders on touring models.

Where Do All the Insurance Payouts Go?

The IIHS says that superbikes have the overall highest insurance losses under collision coverage among the motorcycle classes, and that’s nearly  four times higher than payouts for touring models and more than six times higher than payouts for cruisers.

Accordingly, nine of the ten motorcycles with the highest insurance losses were classified as “superbikes.”

Claim frequency is the driving force pushing up high losses for superbikes. The hottest models are involved in more collisions than other types of motorcycles  and added up to  9 claims per 100 insured vehicle years for superbike models,  and that does not compare favorably to the 2.3 claims filed on average out of a 100 for all other models.

The models surveyed were all 2002-2006 models.

Touring motorcycles accounted for the most expensive claims due to a high initial purchase price, but superbike models are the most popular with thieves and averaged loss payments for theft losses per insured vehicle years of $246 for 2002-2006 models, seven times higher than the average for all motorcycles.

Superbike models also had the highest frequency of thefts at 31.8 per insured vehicle year, compared with cruisers and touring models that had the lowest rates of theft at 1.1 claims per insured vehicle year.

Touring models had the highest average insurance loss payments at nearly $16,000 per, and that number reflects their the high purchase prices and upgrades common to the larger class of bikes.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Related posts:

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2. Knowledge Is Power – It Will Get Increasingly More Dangerous to Ride Your Bike So Know the Score
3. The Safest Times of the Day And Days of the Week To Ride Your Motorcycle

Buying motorcycle insurance presents some challenges, and getting it wrong can cost you money and aggravation. Buying insurance for a custom bike? Well, it gets even more obtuse, Amigo.

If your ride is highly personalized, we’re going to give you some helpful advice to get you started on the right path to insuring your bike, and your ownself…

Whether you own a motorcycle custom built for you or you’ve labored to customized it yourself, insurance for your bike should be equal to the Cash Money worth of that bike. Not all insurance companies offer motorcycle insurance, and unfortunately, some companies that do offer it don’t like to cover custom bikes.

Here’s how you go about evaluating custom motorcycle insurance – and the companies who offer custom motorcycle insurance.

Custom motorcycles need specific provisions to make sure you're fully covered against loss.

What’s the Difference Between Standard vs Custom Motorcycle Insurance?
A standard motorcycle insurance policy is designed to cover street bikes which are basically in the same condition that they rolled off the line from a major manufacturer. They’re bikes in question are generally of the practical and functional variety for commuting or city rides. Policies in this vein cover replacement costs, collision, safety apparel, and loss of transportation. The value of a typical street bike is pretty cut-and-dried, and the Kelley Blue Book is a good source to see what a street bike with certain mileage, year of make, and horse power is worth on the current market, and it’s that value the insurance company will use to determine how much a particular bike is worth.

Custom motorcycle? They’re a whole ‘nother animal, and their owners are usually avid riders and appreciate the finer points of their machines. The value of a custom bike is reasonably hard to determine as a custom motorcycle is unique. That makes finding a cheap insurance quotes comparison a lot more difficult. When you’re talking about trying to insure a Zero Engineering masterwork, or a bike you’ve had custom built by anyone else, there are only so many ways you can find the value of a bike that falls outside the envelope. Insurance that covers a custom or classic motorcycle is vital for such a bike, and you’ll need to do some legwork before you start looking for a quote…

Buying Custom Motorcycle Insurance

Start online. It’s a  good way to get cheap insurance quotes and comparisons. Doing that initial search will give you a baseline and  help you determine which agencies offer coverage for custom bikes.

Most riders who have custom bikes hang with a crowd who ride them as well. Talk to your biker friends who have a custom bike and make it simple – ask where they get their insurance and how reliable their agency is when it comes to service. Many companies offer a discount if members of a bike riders association carry their policies with that agency, and you need to ask them specifically about this sort of coverage. They might also offer a discount if you own more than one bike and insure it with them, or if you have other multiple policies with the same company.

If you ride a custom, you need a company that offers:

• Full replacement cost coverage – even though it may include customization
• Full replacement of the same essential bike and its added accessories
• Complete coverage for any passenger
• Complete – and separate – coverage for any sidecar
• Full liability up to at least $50,000
• Full collision coverage
• Full theft coverage
• Protection against vandalism
• Solid coverage against uninsured or under-insured drivers

Web Sites to Help You Figure Out the Value of Your Bike

Start with the Kelly Blue Book (www.kbb.com). You might have some luck finding a value for your bike there, but don’t count on it if your bike is a classic or an extreme custom.

Another site that offers a way to find a reasonable value for motorcycles is the National Automobile Dealers Association site (www.nadaguides.com). You might run into the same problems there, but it’s a decent way to start.

Then go online at any of the sites  of the reputable agencies and  see what coverage is available, whether the agency is reliable and what rates they charge one at a time. Once you’ve checked out the options, you’ll know where you stand and what to look for in the ultimate motorcycle insurance policy…

Bad things can happen to you and your bike, and your insurance needs can get complicated. We’re here to help…

Related posts:

1. The Motorcycle Insurance Shopper – Five Things You Need to Know To Get The Cheapest Motorcycle Insurance
2. The Five Most Asked Questions About Motorcycle Insurance
3. The Motorcycle Insurance Primer – Ways to Save Cash Money on Your Motorcycle Insurance